Having had little in the way of Cuban cuisine in New York City other than the occasional Cuban sandwich (even these felt suspiciously non-traditional), I was unsure of what to expect at long-venerated Cuba, a festive Cuban restaurant located in the heart of Greenwich Village.
Coconut Mojito
Would there be mojitos served at Cuba? Absolutely, and in vibrant flavors such as Guava, Jackfruit, Coconut, and Mango, all of which arrive happily punched up with Santa Teresa Rum. And what about local Cuban music? There was lots of that—heavy conga beats blasted regularly through the speakers, as a packed crowd of diners swayed to the music, some tapping their feet rhythmically against the terracotta tile floor. Mind you, this was only 6:30 PM on a Monday night, but amidst the lushly potted palms and sea of smiling faces, it could just have easily been 11 PM on a Saturday night in Havana.
Interior
Aside from the heady salsa beats, the brightly painted scenes of idyllic Cuban life lining the brick walls, and the wood tables and chairs as dark as Cuban cigars (in fact, these are hand-rolled by an in-house cigar roller, and are complimentary at the end of your meal), what really makes Cuba a celebration of all things Cuban, is undoubtedly the food. And there is no better way to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of Cuba Restaurant than by ordering Cuba’s most cherished, signature dishes prepared by Chef Mario Garcia.
After cooling off with a refreshing coconut mojito doused heavily with coconut rum and topped with snowy coconut flakes and a sugar cane stick for stirring, I ordered as appetizers the ‘Chicharron Prensado’ (pork belly) and ‘Calamares Con Tamarindo’ (crispy calamari).
Pork Belly
The pork belly and calamari arrived soon after I had placed my order (yet another exquisite feature of the dining experience at Cuba: timely served food); the pork belly was as crisp on the outside as it was tender beneath its caramelized skin. What set Cuba’s Pork Belly apart from others was its distinctly Cuban flair, as it was served on a bed of congri (richly flavorful Cuban rice with black beans), tossed with smoky chunks of Spanish chorizo, peas, and finished with a tangy balsamic glaze.
Calamari
This appetizer could easily have been a meal in itself, but I was hungry for more, and I quickly found myself tucking into the Crispy Calamari appetizer, served with sweet plantains, cherry tomatoes, and tamarind vinaigrette. Again, a familiar favorite dressed up in traditional, bright Cuban flavors. The calamari was tender and delicate, almost a departure from the deeply breaded, chewy bits one sometimes encounters at American seafood restaurants. The textural contrast between the calamari and the tender, lightly fried chunks of plantain, coupled with the acidity of the tomatoes and sweetness of the plantain, was absolute perfection.
The main courses at Cuba are just as enticing as the appetizers (and about the same size, really), with hearty dishes like suckling pig, served with yucca and garlic mojo (a pungent garlic sauce made with garlic, olive oil, and lemon), and a variety of paellas tossed with briny mussels, scallops, and shrimp that arrive in thick cast iron skillets.
Skirt Steak
But I was after simpler fare, and ordered the ‘Filete de Pargo’ (red snapper breaded in green plantain crust, bathed in sofrito sauce, which is a tangy tomato sauce, and served with rice). For the meat component, I opted for the traditional Vaca Frita (which literally means “fried cow”), a pan-fried shredded skirt steak served simply with garlic mojo, onions, parsley, and rice and beans.
Red Snapper
The red snapper was decidedly my favorite of the two dishes, and was perfectly tender, with the slightest crunch from the outer coating of breaded green plantain. Bathed in richly flavorful tomato sauce, and topped with creamy green slices of avocado, the snapper was on the healthier end of the main courses without really revealing itself as such. The Vaca Frita was flavored brilliantly with lime, flecks of parsley, and caramelized onion, but was slightly less tender.
Guava Empanada
As no meal is truly complete without the addition of two desserts (one of which should always be served with a generous scoop of ice cream for those particularly hot New York evenings), I ordered the Empanaditas de Guayaba (guava and cream cheese turnovers), and the traditional and often misinterpreted Tres Leches Cake. The Guava Empanadita dessert is a traditional Cuban indulgence composed of guava and cream cheese turnovers, raspberry sauce, and a scoop of strawberry ice cream. The tender flaky pockets were perfectly fried, and stuffed with a warm cream cheese and guava filling. Essentially a toaster strudel all grown up.
Tres Leches Cake
The Tres Leches Cake, a tower of three sponge cakes soaked in sweet milk, and layered with coconut and pineapple meringue, was as fluffy as a cloud, and maintained the perfect note of sweetness throughout its layers. Also a dessert not to be missed, if you are at all curious about what a real Tres Leches cake tastes like.
While Cuba Restaurant officially celebrated its 10th anniversary last Friday, with colorful live music, and an endless supply of mojitos, in reality, on any given night, the dining experience is as celebratory and festive. Rare is the occasion that each component of a meal—the ambience, the food, décor, and service—combine to create a vibrant dining experience worthy of the most discerning New York diners.
Caroline Solomon dined as a guest of Cuba.
Cuba
www.cubanyc.com
222 Thompson Street, between West 3rd and Bleecker Sts.