If there were ever a steakhouse in midtown Manhattan that promised a tranquil dining experience (free of the rowdy after work set that you might encounter at Smith & Wollensky’s), that also serves some of the most tender steak in New York, then 212 Steakhouse fits this description to a delicious T-bone steak.
This unique and upscale steakhouse, located on 53rd between 2nd and 1st, serves an exceptional array of Kobe, Wagyu, prime beef, and seafood, all at exceptional prices. The owner of the establishment, Nikolay Volper, insists on serving quality meats at reasonable prices, and impressively, serves on his menu a $10 kobe beef filet mignon 80% off its market price (in spite of the significant price reduction, I can assure you that the steak is as tender as butter). If the notion of using ‘meat’ and ‘discount’ in the same sentence makes you a little uneasy, fear not: Volper’s steakhouse is the only restaurant in all of the East Coast to receive approval to use Kobe Beef (through the Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association of Japan).
Back Dining Room
What also sets the steakhouse apart from others of its kind is its serene atmosphere that is consistently maintained from the front to the very back of the 100-seat restaurant. A ‘serene steakhouse’ seems rather oxymoronic and even a little incongruous, but when you are tucking into a decadent, wagyu striploin, it really allows the food to shine and sparkle. Ambient lighting floods the bar, lounge area, and the front and back dining rooms, illuminating the gold and silver toned chairs and multitude of circular mirrors lining the walls of the restaurant. I felt as though I was floating on a luxurious cruise ship in the middle of the Baltic Sea as opposed to dining in humid midtown Manhattan.
Spinach Soup
To start, my guest and I were each served bowls of piping hot spinach soup. Again, another unexpected welcome that came in the form of soup, a dish that I rarely seek out at restaurants and was truly surprised at how much I savored each spoonful until the very last drop. The soup was served in a rich creamy broth, brightly accented with sprigs of dill, and garnished with creamy crumbles of Greek feta on a crescent-shaped crostini. This spinach soup taught me that delicious soup is difficult to prepare, and more importantly, that 212 Steakhouse serves a standout spinach soup that is not to be missed.
Grilled Octopus
Another standout starter that my guest and I ordered was the grilled octopus, served with mini peppers, capers, and marinated in red wine vinegar and oil. This grilled octopus was arguably one of the most tender grilled octopus dishes I have come across in New York; it is the kind of grilled octopus that all others aspire to, but always ends up falling short for the amount of time it takes to chew (rubbery octopus is a most unfortunate casualty of grilling).
Crabcake
For our other starter, we opted for the crabcake, which was composed of heaping tender flakes of Maryland jumbo lump crabmeat and served on a bed of lightly dressed greens with a side of tangy remoulade. Again, don’t let the title of 212 Steakhouse deter you from ordering seafood at this establishment; the crabcake was fried to perfection and the crabmeat was buttery and tender.
Kobe Beef Ribeye
Of course, for our main courses we more interested in the ‘turf’ portion of the menu, and opted for the Kobe beef ribeye (priced at 15 dollars per ounce instead of the market price of 45 dollars per ounce), and the 12 oz. American wagyu striploin (priced at 49 as opposed to the market price of 120 dollars). The wagyu striploin (opening photo), served medium rare, and garnished with chimichurri sauce, was the stuff of wagyu myth: perfectly tender with that uniformly delicate fatty marbling that everyone gets so excited about, it was right there before my eyes (and in my mouth), and might I add all at a very reasonable price.
Sauteed Mixed Mushrooms
As for the ribeye, this was a hulking thing that could easily be shared among a group of three or four, and though a bit on the saltier side, it was again cooked to medium rare perfection and was richly flavorful and gamey. Whereas the striploin’s flavors were a marriage of meat and fat, the flavor of the meat was more showcased in the ribeye. As a result, I would recommend ordering both to get a sense of how wagyu and kobe beef taste respectively. To accompany our mains, we ordered a side of sautéed mixed mushrooms, and sautéed Brussels sprouts, both of which were richly buttery and deliciously salty.
Sauteed Brussel Sprouts
In addition to the exceptional quality of the food, expect the caliber of the drinks to be just as excellent. Volper’s drinks menu features a variety of French, Swiss, and New Zealand wines, as well as organic liquors made from prunes, tea, and caviar.
Bar Area
Overall, 212 Steakhouse is an exceptional steakhouse whose food, service, and ambience, combine to create a first-rate dining experience in midtown Manhattan. While I normally try to steer clear of midtown Manhattan for dinner, I would undoubtedly make an exception for 212 Steakhouse, as I can decidedly say it serves some of the most reasonably priced, tender steak in town.
Photos by Caroline Solomon. Except Back Dining Room is courtesy of 212 Steakhouse. The writer dined as a guest of the restaurant.
212 Steakhouse
316 East 53rd Street, Manhattan
212-858-0646
