Setting foot in Chapter One, Damian Collins’ newest venture located in the heart of the West Village, is a bit like being transported to New York in the 1920s. Replete with oxblood leather booths, expansive black-and-white photographs of New York from the 20th century, as well as charming pewter tables and artisanal wooden chairs, this American tavern melds comfort and elegance in a way that is not typically found in the West Village.
The owner of this cozy establishment is Damian Collins, who himself hails from Ireland, and has been in the hospitality industry for over ten years. Collins first launched his career at the much-celebrated Ashford Castle in Ireland, and later worked as director of Food and Beverage Operations at Sheen Falls Lodge. Given Collins’ background, it should come as no surprise that Chapter One embodies classic, no-nonsense American fare, with threads of European influence.
At the helm of the kitchen is executive chef Warren Baird, who worked as a chef for a number of years in Charlotte, North Carolina, before landing a role as sous chef at the acclaimed seafood spot, Esca in New York. Baird’s elegant command of classic American dishes, such as beef tartar, short ribs, and seared scallops, inspires reliably delicious, honest American food.
In terms of the beverage program at Chapter One, Collins has worked closely with City Winery to offer up varietals like Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, and Chardonnay. One can expect the classics to appear as well among the cocktails, like an Old-Fashioned prepared with twelve-year-old bourbon, or a Sweet Manhattan, among others.
The highlights among the appetizers my guest and I sampled were the asparagus (photo above) and beef tartar. The asparagus starter, served with guanciale vinaigrette, shaved pecorino, and a fried egg, was elevated by the quality of the ingredients and its fine execution. The asparagus were grilled to perfection, with just the right snap and salt content. The fried egg was capped with a bright, unctuous orange egg yolk evocative of local fare. The guanciale vinaigrette was smoky but not overpoweringly so, while the thinly shaved pecorino melted delightfully on the palette.
The beef tartar starter (photo above) is also worthy of praise, and was served generously alongside a swatch of smoky black garlic paste, jeweled pickled mustard seeds, watercress, and a crisp sliver of baguette. The tartar was tender, and expertly seasoned, with just the right amount of chewiness. The tartness of the pickled mustard seed and smokiness of the black garlic were also welcome counterpoints to the gaminess of the meat.
Among the mains my guest and I sampled, the seared scallops and burger were first rate. The scallops were accompanied by spring peas, rich smoky cubes of bacon, sweet pearl onions, and a deeply flavorful sorrel butter that I used to sop up every last morsel on my plate. The scallops were tender, smooth, and tasted of the sea, while the green peas and pearl onions were earthy and offered up a crunchy textural contrast to the scallops.
The burger, prepared with white cheddar, onion jam, and house bacon, was also a real beauty. The meat was perfectly tender, moist, and paired nicely with the tartness of the onion jam and smokiness of the bacon. This is a burger that you can really sink your teeth into and thoroughly enjoy, as it is both well executed and prepared with prime ingredients.
For dessert, we finished the meal with a smoked chocolate pudding with cacao nibs and buttermilk mousse. While the buttermilk mousse was slightly too thin and runny for my taste, the smoked pudding was decadent and creamy, and really tasted like a chocolate pudding that was all grown up. The cacao nibs were also fun to munch on while savoring the pudding.
Overall, Chapter One is the sort of restaurant where you can sink into a deep leather banquet, have a cocktail or glass of wine, perhaps do some people watching (Greenwich avenue is ideal for that sort of thing), and most importantly, enjoy classic, expertly prepared American food that will not disappoint.
The writer dined as a guest of Chapter One.
Photos by Caroline Solomon or courtesy of Chapter One
Chapter One
33 Greenwich Avenue, NYC
212-842-9146
www.chapteronenyc.com